Whew, a long drive – 295 miles of the worst roads, by far, so far.  Gone were the smooth, wide shouldered highways of earlier travel in Canada.  

Patched roads, potholes – some filled, most not – and many frost heaves.  Most hazards were identified by signs with a zizzag on them or by red cones or red flags.  There were about 25 miles of gravel roads, but they were smooth, 50 MPH – but dusty.  Luckily, I was not behind anyone on the dusty sections.

Some nice scenery would have been possible, but a 2000’ ceiling obscured the higher peaks, some of which were over 15,000 feet in elevation – all to the west in Kluane National Park and Reserve and in the St. Elias Mountains.  Wide valleys from 2 to 6 miles wide.

Our Milepost book (the traveler’s guide to the Alaska Highway) says that the section we drove the last 3 hours today was the most difficult section of the Alaska Highway to construct in 1943 and the most difficult to maintain today.

Camped at an RV park in Koidern, elevation 2300’ and which is in the middle of nowhere.  All electricity is from a diesel generator, so we were asked to keep high watt usage to a minimum on our 15 amp service.  No cell coverage now or for most of the day.  Had a brief cell signal in Haines Junction, where we last filled with gas. Had a little rain.

We have traveled over 3500 miles since departing Depoe Bay – and over 1100 since departing Dawson Creek – and other than in Banff, have seen little that outshines the natural beauty of Oregon – the Cascades, the Columbia River Gorge, the high desert, the coast.  

But this is empty, wild country.  Lots of trees.  No forest burn scars today, but many dead spruce trees from Spruce Beetle infestation exacerbated by a warmer climate.  The milder winters do not kill the beetles now. The glacial moraines have been much less frequent. The mountains to the west create a rain shadow and much of this region was surprisingly not covered in ice during the last ice age – not enough moisture.

Many times I have asked the locals, “What is the winter like here?”  Every time they answer, “Not as much snow as in years past – inches instead of feet and milder, wetter, warmer.”

Saw a black bear today – about 40’ off the road – but no other wildlife. But we did see road signs to be on the lookout for Dahl sheep, but they were likely up high grazing on the summer vegetation.

Nicest part of the drive today was again through the highlands between Haines and Haines Junction.  Treeless tundra about 3300’ in elevation.  It was nice to not be surrounded by trees everywhere.

As scenery was unspectacular, did not take any photos.  Departed Haines at 7:30 AM and arrived Koidern at 4:45 PM.  We had a time change exiting Alaska.

Had an uneventful border crossing from the US back into Canada.  I was asked by customs if we had any crab.  “No, I will have all the Dungeness crab I desire when I return to Depoe Bay in September and early October”.  

“Have a nice trip”.  

We are.