More Comforting Advice 

From Wikitravel.com:
Marrakech is a generally safe city, with a solid police presence. However, staying alert about your surroundings and taking general safety precautions is always a good idea like everywhere. Here are some tips:

Violent crime is normally not a major problem, but thefts are known to happen. Keep your money close and hidden, and avoid poorly lit streets or alleys at night.

Guides offering their services should display an official badge from the local tourist authorities.

Morocco is under an increased threat from international terrorism. Be vigilant when you’re out and contact authorities if you notice anything suspicious.

Be especially careful about being drugged, especially as a solo traveller. The common and easy-to-make drug GHB only lasts three hours and is undetectable in the body after 7 hours, so if you are attacked, take action immediately.

Be careful ordering room service if you are a solo traveller, as even older women can be targets for robbery. Don’t ask the waiter to enter your room.

Be especially careful in the Guéliz (New Town) area when walking at night – muggings and bag snatches, often at knifepoint, by men on motorbikes are common when leaving the bars and restaurants.

If driving in Marrakech be very careful to observe roadsigns and traffic regulations. Although the traffic seems chaotic, the police are very keen on stopping foreigners and will not hesitate to impose on the spot fines (especially if you have left your driving license at the hotel).

Marrakech has many stray cats. These do not pose an immediate threat to most travelers (they are not aggressive) but do have a high risk of carrying fleas in their fur.

Some of the tent food stalls in Jamaa el Fna will overcharge you heavily, e.g. giving you a bill amounting to Dh 470 for just some mediocre street food for three. Beware of restaurants that are not full of locals, and always check 

Drinking water

The tap water in Marrakech is OK for bathing. While locals drink it with no problems, visitors often find it hard to digest. To be safe, opt for bottled mineral water, available at the marketplace kiosks and food stalls. Make sure that the cap seal has not been broken, since Moroccan vendors have been known to save money by refilling plastic bottles from the tap. At restaurants, ask for your drinks without ice cubes, which are usually made with tap water.

Toiletries
An important issue concerning toiletries in Marrakesh, and the cities around as well, is that, in general, commercial establishments, cafés and restaurants also, do not have toilet paper in their bathrooms, even in ladies’s rooms. So a good practice is always to carry toilet paper with you.

Scams
If you look like a tourist, then it is common for people to offer to help with directions or even lead you to what you are looking for. Although not apparent at first, these people expect to be paid and will often lead you round in circles to increase the amount. Be careful when exiting your taxi, scammers may grab your luggage from the trunk while posing as bellboys from the hotel, so confirm their identity before letting anyone touch your bags. Also, people may say that the place you are looking for is closed, but they will take you somewhere else that’s better. This is almost always a lie. The best people to ask for directions are people behind a counter, as they cannot lead you because they don’t want to leave their stall. If you are seriously lost, getting someone to lead you back is an option, but you should not give them more than Dh 10-20, no matter how much they complain.

Moroccans are not permitted to be guides for foreigners without a license. Usually Police officers (under cover) are patrolling to catch Moroccans who are bothering tourists or try to make some money.
There are often people in Djemaa El-Fna offering henna tattoos, which are popular with locals and tourists alike. But among the many genuine traders are one or two scam artists. They appear very charming and trustworthy while you choose a design, but will then cleverly divert your attention. Before you know it, you have the beginnings of a rather poor henna tattoo. Even if you do not want a design, keep your hands away from them as they will grab your hand and begin a design anyway. The scam artist later demands massive payments, in whatever currency you have (dirhams or not). After emptying your pockets, if they consider you can afford more, they will demand that you visit a nearby ATM. Always agree on a firm price before work starts. If you can’t do this, insist that the operator stops immediately — then go to another (hopefully more reliable) operator to get your design completed. If they say it is free before they start or while they are doing it, they will always ask for a price later on. If this happens to you, you can walk away without paying; however, they will harass you for a little before giving up and moving on to another tourist. Also, there have been stories of these scam artists using henna mixed with dangerous chemicals, such as PPD (this is sometimes done to make the tattoos appear black), which can cause skin damage or severe allergic reactions.
Some tourists encounter an elderly lady offering henna in the main square – she welcomes you to her stall, and then fetches her friends (who arrive, usually, on motor bikes) and will provide you with very appealing tattoos – however, beware – they will not agree a price upfront and will ask for huge amounts – e.g. a 50Dh tattoo will be 450Dh – or they will promise you free tattoos and then charge equally large amounts. When you dispute the amount they will scream at you – so be calm, pay them what you think it is worth, and walk away. If they try to stop you then create attention – however, do not use physical violence as these artists work in gangs and before you know it you’ll be surrounded by other con-artists.
There is a small nameless restaurant inside the markets catering to tourists. It looks like a budget restaurant but has extremely inflated prices. It has an awning with painted faces and offers grilled brochettes for Dh 40 each, which is much higher than the regular price.
Most Moroccans are tourist-friendly and are not aggressive, so sometimes making a fuss in public can generate unwanted attention for a scam artist and shame them into backing off.
When bartering, know what currency is being quoted. Some sellers quote in euros while allowing the buyer to assume dirhams, hoping they may be embarrassed/confused into making the sale anyway.

If You Have The Money

You can stay at the Four Seasons here in Marrakech.  Rooms start at $491.00 for the low budget traveler, but if you really want be pampered, spring for the Presidential Suite at just under $4,000 a night.  If that is not to your liking, just ask them for the Royal Villa.  If you ask “How much?” you cannot afford it, as the price for the Royal Villa is not posted.

https://reservations.fourseasons.com/choose-your-room?hotelCode=RAK771&checkIn=2016-05-27&checkOut=2016-05-28&adults=1&children=0&promoCode=&ratePlanCode=&roomAmadeusCode=&_charset_=UTF-8&offerCampaignId=property:marrakech%2Flate-checkout&_s_icmp=open_offers-marrakech-late-checkout

Sizing Me Up

I was reading about Marrakech this morning before breakfast and came across the following post on LonelyPlanet.com.  It pretty accurately describes what I have already experienced.

At one time Morocco used to be absolutely terrible with faux guides and touts that wouldn’t let go until you were at the  screaming point.

And then the results of a quite famous tourism survey in the early 1980s were shared at high government levels. When asked ‘would you return to Morocco?’ a massive 97% of respondents said no, quoting problems with touts, unofficial guides, scams and the like in Marrakech, Fez and Agadir.

The government–looking to increase tourist revenues–took this very seriously and this is what prompted the formation of the Brigade Touriste (Tourist Police) and the regulations to prevent the faux guides. Nevertheless this doesn’t prevent the situation that Moroccans have a sixth sense for greenness, and some greedy shopkeepers/hoteliers/restaurant owners/taxi drivers won’t miss an opportunity to squeeze ridiculous amounts of money out of inexperienced people. Whether or not they try it on depends on how they size you up.

Yesterday I was approached several times by the street touts.  They are on every street and are of all ages, but mostly they are less than 20.  It goes without saying they are all male.  They are often seen kicking a soccer ball around to pass the idle time.  It is a different atmosphere than the “Hey Mister” and “Excuse me” opening sales banter on the streets of Luxor.  There is more intimidation here.  Few people speak or read english but everyone speaks arabic and french.  

Last night on my walk back to the hotel after dinner – it was past 11 PM – I was approached by a man in his 20’s that started yacking in my face in french.  I thought he was asking if I was lost but was unsure – I do not speak any french.  (Are you lost?  May I help you find something?   Great opening lines to all tourists here because navigating the place is worse than a fucking corn maze in Iowa on a moonless night without a flashlight).  I replied “english” and kept walking.  He continued to talk to me, getting up in my face.  I again said “english, I only speak english, no french”.  I waved him off as I briskly walked away saying “No french.”  He raised his voice, saying something in french and then started waving his arms back at me, as I had done to him.   I then heard him say “Fuck You” with a french accent.  I said “Fuck You” back to him as he walked away.

Today, as I wander the streets, I will be more assertive, confident and direct as the locals “size me up”.  

I want to find the tannery section of the medina, but it is Friday and many shops will probably be closed.

http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/shared/spl/hi/picture_gallery/06/africa_marrakesh0s_tanneries/html/1.stm

My Room. Nice.

Inside the walls of old Marrahech.  Nice.  

No TV. Nice. 

Birds chirping in the central courtyard, just outside my window.Nice.

The host, a woman asked if I had GPS on my phone. Nice, I can get lost again, wandering narrow, crooked alleys.
Time to find a beer and some music. Nice

Riad Dar Tusci

From their website:

Situated in one of the most ancients quarters of the Medina, that still maintain the fascination and the authenticity of the Moroccan culture, it is an optimal point of departure in order to discover the lively city of Marrakech. The furnishing and the architecture of the Riad are in typical Moroccan style, carpets Berbers, zellij, tadellakt…., terrace with pergola and deckchairs for the relax or suntan and a salon with fireplace, where the hosts coming from all over the world can meet and know each other. The five rooms are different the one from the other for style and colors, offer charm and very good confort: air conditioning, heating, safe box, and private bathroom.

For the well-being of its hosts, Dar Tuscia has its own Hammam, after which a relaxant massage will regenerate your body and your mind. The cook is at your disposition for typical plates with fresh food, taken to the souk of quarter, his tagine is a very appreciated. In the salon TVsat and HiFi are at your disposition. Internet access point is available and free, moreover the Riad is covered by a WiFi connection. At your arrival a tea will be offered to you and from that moment the staff of Dar Tuscia will do everything to satisfy your needs or desires. 

The five rooms have private bathroom and indipendent air conditioning/heating. Supplied of safe deposit box and equipped of linen, towels and soap. Hair dryer is supplied upon request.

+212524381396

91, Dior Jdad Zaouia El Abbassia, Bab Doukala – Marrakech –

Finally

Figured out how to easily make good posts with the software.  Use the app, not the web interface.  Get a SIM card for each country with plenty of data, and use the iPhone, not the hotel wifi.

Granted, Morocco is much more developed than Egypt, but I have learned a lot in a month about my electronics.

242 km or 150 miles.

Fodor’s Says:


Marrakesh is Morocco’s most intoxicating city. Ever since Morocco’s “Jewel of the South” became a trading and resting place on the ancient caravan routes from Timbuktu, the city has barely paused for breath.

Lying low and dominating the Haouz Plain at the foot of the snowcapped High Atlas Mountains (a marvelous sight on a sunny day), the city was stubbornly defended against marauding tribes by successive sultans. They maintained their powerful dynasties and surveyed their fertile lands from the Menara Garden’s tranquil olive groves and lagoon, and the Agdal Gardens’ vast orchards. Today, exploring the city has never been easier. A crackdown on hustlers who hassle and an undercover Tourist Police mean that you’re freer than ever before to wander and wonder.
The medina is Marrakesh’s miracle—a happy clash of old and new, in turn beguiling and confusing. Virtually unchanged since the Middle Ages, Marrakesh’s solid, salmon-pink ramparts encircle and protect its mysterious labyrinthine medina, hiding palaces, mansions, and bazaars. 

Pedestrians struggle to find their balance on the tiny cobbled lanes among an endless run of mopeds, donkey carts, and wheelbarrows selling a mixture of sticky sweets and saucepans. 

But pick up your jaw, take your time, and take it all in, stewing in the Rose City like a mint leaf in a pewter teapot.

I say:  Here I come.

abackpackandadaysack 

On Walkabout

The Urban dictionary says:

walkabout

Background: Australian. Given to us by Crocodile Dundee: 

A spontaneous journey through the wilderness of one’s choosing in an effort to satisfy one’s itchy feet, a need to be elsewhere, the craving for the open road, that space over the horizon…yes… something like that… you can’t quite touch it so you have to go find it because it’s you just know it’s there…Or maybe it just feels good to go walking around … 😉 Yeah. It’s WALKABOUT.