I realize that the people of Egypt are poor, and that I am rich, very rich to almost everyone I have interacted with during my sojourn in Egypt. I have been thankful every day. More thoughts about poverty in Egypt in a blog to come, inshallah.

Upon boarding the Princess Sarah (rated a “luxury” cruise ship, the highest class on the Nile) I was greeted by a man I will call Mohamed. He was the man that booked the cruise for Abdoul, the owner at the Venus Hotel. I surrendered my passport at the front desk for photocopying and looked around. Not a 5 star by western standards, but by Egyptian standards. There are 95 passengers aboard.

My backpack (left the daysack at Venus with all the unneeded crap) was on the floor at the front desk. After stowing my passport, I intentionally reached as though I was going to carry the backpack to my room – just to watch the porter jump at the thought of not getting his tip. I chuckled to myself at how swiftly he jumped. “I just be uh toyin’ with ya, son.”

The backpack was heavier than I planned, since I brought along my own water and vodka, being a spendthrift and refusing to pay $1.60 for a bottle of water or $4.50 a drink aboard when I can have Jimmy or Ali at Venus buy water in a shop for $0.40, and then I can give them $0.50 baksheesh and everyone comes out ahead. If I try to buy a bottle of water in the same store as Jimmy or Ali, I get charged $1.50 for the same water. A beer on the boat, $4.00. Jimmy bought me several for $1.20.

After my backpack was placed in my room, Mohamed said to make myself comfortable, settle in, refresh myself and then meet him in the bar. I smiled, nodded yes, said “Sure, OK.” I closed the door, gave the room a quick look around, put the ‘Do Not Disturb ‘ sign on the door handle and bolted straight for the stairs to the top deck via the door at the end of the hallway. I was not visible from the bar where Mohamed was sitting patiently, expectantly. Again, I chuckled to myself and wondered how long he would sit in the bar and wait for me and then how long it would take him to find me. I knew why he wanted to talk to me.

The Sarah was moored adjacent to another boat that was fast to the shore, so from the starboard side of the deck there was an unobstructed view of the entire river, the West Bank and the Valleys of the Queens and Kings. From the upper deck you can clearly see Theban Peak, the pyramid shaped mountain that is thought to have added a sacred relevance to the burial sites. The great pyramids of Giza preceded the burials at Valley of the Kings and doubtless there is a connection, as Theban looks almost perfectly symetrical in one dimention fromthe distance.

Past the small pool and rows of sun chairs, I moved to the starboard stern railing and watched the feluccas, ferries and other boats plying the mighty Nile at midday. The 62 year old man with a ponytail was playing hide and seek. Find me. I chuckled again at the thought of him looking for me and saying to himself “Where is that fucker?”

There was considerable flotsam, jetsam and paper trash in the river. When the river rises I bet it is full of crap since the banks of all of the interconnected irrigation canals are garbage dumps, like in the US before passage of the EPA and the environmental movement that began in the late 60’s/early 70’s. We take environmental stewardship pretty seriously now in the US but it was not always the case. Egypt is still too poor to care and many waterways are full or trash, especially around Giza.

After about 15 minutes Mohamed finally found me. We made eye contact. “The gig is up.” Sixty feet away he sat down at a table under an umbrella. I was tempted to do the same at the stern and see if he would come closer, but thought I had played with him enough. I walked over to him and stood, in the power position, as he sat. It was rude but I already knew what was coming.

“This tour, that temple, yada, yada, yada. English guide, 4 other Americans, a small personal group. $35.00. Not like the other large groups on the cruise (mostly Japanese. More about them later, as I have 5 days to dissect them and their behaviors) temples very ancient and beautiful.”

I asked how much a horse carriage would be if I did not want a guided tour. “Very expensive, very hard.” I told him I had been all over Luxor in carriages and that I would be just fine, thank you. He again said “very difficult.” I thought “perfect, that is what I like.” Realizing he was loosing the sale he said “If guided tour price is not good, I am willing……” I smiled and said “Maybe tomorrow, insha -allah.”

After several guided tours I found the unescorted wandering at the Dendura Temple most memorable.  It is difficult to concentrate and fully understand what the guide is saying while simultaneously focusing visually on the item being described. It takes too much brain power with a guide. Anyway, been there, done that. I will go solo. It will be more challenging and memorable if I do the “travelers dance” with another carriage driver, or just stay aboard and relax.

After lunch, I ran the gauntlet of touts the four short blocks from the Sarah east to Venus, crossing over the Avenue of Sphinxes, recently discovered and being excavated. The ancient road, 2.5 km long, connects the Temples of Luxor and Karnak (the second largest pharaonic monument in Egypt after the great pyramids of Giza). Buried for centuries, the avenue is being brought back life by demolishing the numerous buildings, homes, churches and sacred mosques that were built above the avenue, then removing hundreds of thousands of tons of rubble that has accumulated 30 feet deep above the avenue.  I have some great pics of the thousands of defaced sphinxes that line the entire route on both sides. It must have been spectacular.

At Venus, I had Ali buy me two 1.5 liter bottles of fresh squeezed orange juice for about $2.00 USD each. Ali is about 14 and the nephew of Abdoul. His father, the older brother of Abdoul, died; I did not ask how or when. Ali speaks very little english and is the general errand boy around the hotel for Abdoul. I then sent Jimmy, another relative of Abdoul, to buy ½ kilo of limes and lemons. Next on the list was canned carbonated pomegranate juice, but Ali did not understand. He followed as I walked to a store to show him what I wanted, 6 cans. If I bought them, $1.00 or 10 Egyptian pounds each. He can buy 3 cans for 10 pounds.

As we were walking back to Venus an argument broke out 10 feet from the door to Venus. An old man with a horse and carriage had parked on the street outside the photographer’s studio next to Venus. Rapidly the situation became heated, very heated. People stopped, gathered and stared. In less than a minute there were dozens people gawking in the crowd. I stood safely on the doorstep of Venus and watched. A woman got involved – she was an Orthodox Christian as was the studio owner. The old man, sitting in his buggy, was screaming and the studio owner was screaming. Soon ten people were screaming at each other. I wondered how it would turn out, but I had no idea about the issue or what was being said.

Abdoul, tall, confident, always smiling – the benefactor/mentor/surrogate father of Ali and the caretaker/friend/negotiator for abackpackandadaysack intervened like an experienced , mature statesman. Men tried to pull the horse away by the halter. The horse would not budge without the old man’s command from the reigns. I watched as Abdoul gently touched several men on the shoulder, the arm and once even on the butt. Slowly the yelling and tension subsided.. Abdoul continued his diplomatic efforts. Eventually, the conflict was resolved and the crowd dispersed.

I watched and thought about the United States. Someone would have thrown a punch, pulled a knife or fired a gun; but now all those involved in the argument were smiling.

I sat in the hotel lobby as Abdoul entered. “What was that about, please tell me.”

The Christian studio owner did not like having the horse parked on the doorstep of his studio, leaving piles of smelly horse shit and a big puddle of horse piss. The owners of the carriages never clean up the shit; none of them do anywhere in Luxor. You must constantly watch where you walk. This the reason everyone takes off their shoes upon entering a home in second and third world countries. Horse, donkey, sheep, goat, pig, chicken, dog shit is ubiquitos.

Wish I had the inet to up load pics. Even in remote areas of Nepal I could up load pics. Someday soon I will, inshallah.

Ship wants $9.00 for 24 hrs of snail pace Inet.   Will write and save, then upload every few days.

The day started with a breakfast that I cooked in the kitchen. A Denver omelet, coffee, juice.

Again, too bad I cannot upload any of the thousands of pics I have taken.

Just after 8 AM I was into the cab with the cracked windshield for a 140 km round trip road trip north from Luxor (Luxor is on the east bank of the Nile). Went through the checkpoint at the bridge then crossed over the Nile to the west bank and then north past the Valley of the Queens and the Valley of the Kings north to the Temple of Dendara. We passed about 10 police checkpoints along the way and the only problem was when the cab driver did not have a valid cab operator license for the month of May. I sat alone in the cab for 10 minutes at the checkpoint as the driver resolved the renewal, then we were off again.

 

We stopped at a mud brick factory (everything was manual and hand labor) to allow me to take a few pics, but made a hasty retreat back into the cab when the owner started yelling that he wanted $10.00 for me to take pictures. I still got a few pics before he could get close enough to start hassling me in earnest.  The men squatting in the dirt in the mid morning sun, making the mud bricks swiftly by hand at the rate of 4 a minute, earned $8.00 US a day.

The road north was several hundred feet above the Nile and it was desert – nothing but rock – not a single plant of any size visible anywhere on the roadside. The landscape was dramatically different than the lush, green, productive, irrigated land just a half mile away in what was once the Nile’s flood plain (before the Aswan High Dam). It was a landscape more barren than much of Death Valley. Trash piles lined the entire road.

Most of rural roadside Egypt looks like a landfill, full of trash and rubble, but with no smell, since the flies, bugs, mice, rats, cats, dogs, sheep, goats or donkeys eat everything organic that is in the trash piles.  Often the remaining rubbish is set on fire to burn the paper and plastic.

We passed hundreds of donkey carts and several communities where a civilian guard – not the police or Army, stood on the roadside with either a shotgun or a rifle as they provided security protection for the community.

Prior to entry to the Dendura temple parking lot, the police at the checkpoint wanted to know where we were from (Luxor) and my nationality for their logbook.  They did not ask for my papers, luckily.  I normally leave my passport hidden in my room and only take a xerox copy with me.

The large parking lot was empty – completely. I wandered around the ancient temple for several hours, occasionally with the assistance of a friendly police officer that spoke a little english. “ Where from you?” I sat with him and conversed.  We had tea on a bench just inside the temple, with his auto weapon resting between us. He confirmed that I could not take his picture, but somehow, accidentally 😜…….I did.

 

I had the entire temple to myself.  I wandered, marveled and took pictures. It was beautiful – with hieroglyphs on every vertical wall surface and many walls and ceilings still showing some ancient paint. The entire complex was surrounded by a deteriorating wall 30 feet high made from millions of ancient mud bricks. Built over hundreds of years by a series of rulers, it was built rather recently by Egyptian standards.  It is only about 2100 years old, and the Roman influence is visible.  It covers over 10 acres or 40,000 square meters.

Being an American, the police were concerned about me as we exited the checkpoint and required the cab to take the longer, slower road on the east bank of the Nile back to Luxor. They required us to follow a police truck – a mini pickup with an armed policeman in the back. (A convoy escort not unlike the one I will doubtless have when taking the 8 hour round trip journey to Abu Simbel from Aswan in several days). They ensured we stayed in sight as we progressed south down the east bank of the Nile. After we passed the third or fourth checkpoint, about 20 km on the way back to Luxor, they waved us ahead unescorted. But we continued to pass through numerous police checkpoints and guards with guns at several community entrances. My ID has never been checked. My hair is my ID, maybe.

Back in Luxor, Abdoul took me with him in his car as he ran errands – buying toilet paper and soap for the hotel, picking up his three year old son for a sleepover with his father at the hotel, dropping off the Thai couple at the train station, to the tailor to pickup my tailored shirt ($5.00 to sew, including the obligatory baksheesh).

Then we were off to the market. A bag full of cilantro, dill, something like parsley, mint and other fresh greens for $1.50.  Then 3 kilo of potatoes, 2 kilo of tomatoes, onions – all for $2.50. Off again to get some meat – 2 rotisserie chickens, bread, containers of a potato stew and a vegie stew for $12.00. In the kitchen, Abdoul and I made salad and prepared dinner together for his adopted nephew, grandson, and 2 staff members. I sent Jimmy out to buy me some beers (much cheaper to pay him to buy for me).  Dinner was delicious and it was was with great company.

After dinner I went out on my own to buy more 100% Egyptian cotton for 4 more tailored shirts.  It took a lot of haggling – about 30 minutes, a cup of tea, showing pics on my iPhone and lots of the travelers dance, but I eventually was successful in closing the deal for $5.00 a meter for 8+ meters of really nice shirt material. Will drop it off at the sewing shop tomorrow. It was now 9:30 PM and the seller (really a multilingual interpreter/salesman) and I then went to a bar for a beer.

As we walked I was a little intimidated for the first time today as we went 6 or 8 blocks to the bar. I ensured that the beer bottles never left my sight after they were opened, just in case someone might try to slip something nefarious in the bottle (the bar was a little seedy, even by Egyptian standards). After paying for the two beers each, we walked back to my hotel, but not without “the dance” for more baksheesh for the fabric. I politely but insistently refused, but not before I was safely on the hotel doorstep.

OK, enough of the soft stuff. Time for the current events editorial and commentary.

Back in my room, I watched the news on cable TV.  CNN’s coverage feels more like a British TV presentation than an American TV presentation – no Wolf, no Anderson – it is almost exclusively unknown faces with British voices. They run a loop of in depth stories that repeats every hour. Lots of Trump coverage today now that he is the presumptive Republican noninee– the repeating clips of Trump spouting off about the trade imbalance with China, Japan and Mexico, his idea of the need for diminishing support for South Korea and NATO, proposing nukes for Korea and Japan, his wonderful friendship with Putin, the wonderful Mexican food at Trump Towers on Cinco de Mayo.  All of these clips make Americans look like fucking idiots on the world stage.

The former Mexican president Vincente Fox was on yesterday and he came across as Presidential, as he appoligized for his language about the wall, but it was not an appology TO Trump, as Trump alledges.

Later, I read online at the National Enquirer website that Trump is so talented and capable at EVERYTHING that he gives HiMSELF Swedish back massages while he sucks his own dick.  Some people believe anything they read or hear someone say on tv or read on the inet.

Two days ago I was asked by a Japanese man at the hotel about Trump. Nodding like a bobble head, he said “He hates Japan, yes?”

I have repeatedly watched the Muslims of Luxor do business, smoke shisha (a coarse cut tobacco mixed with honey) play dominoes, sit and drink tea or laughing with the 30% Orthodox Christian population of Luxor (25% of Egypt is Christian).

The Brits in London just elected a Muslim mayor today and there are clips of him talking about religious unity in the UK juxtaposed seconds later with clips of you know who saying he proposes “A total and complete shutdown on Muslims entering the US.”  Imagine the US prohibiting the Mayor of London from visiting the US!!

Then I saw clips of Ryan and Graham nobly expressing skepticism about their support for Trump.  I was appalled by McCain’s support – maybe Trump was right about him – I don’t think he can be all that intelligent, as he picked a complete dimwit for VP.  MaCain is up for reelection and is just worried about remaining a senator.  The consumate politician following the anti immigration sentiment of Arizona.   And then CNN played more clips with more bombastic rhetoric from Trump that was ___________, ____________ and ______________.

I think it is about time for me to start answering the ubiquitios question with “I am from Canada, eh?” “Ah, up in British Columbia – in Vancouver, eh”.

BTW, I find it somewhat disheartening – after spending an hour or two to post an entry – to never receive feedback or comments.  If you enjoyed a post, please respond with a comment.  Disagree?  I don’t give a rat’s ass.  Is there ANYTHING that you are curious about or have a position on?  If so, leave a comment.

Feedback/comments/email from friends and family are like a brief rainshower in the heat of solo travel in the desert – refreshing and sustaining sustinance for the journey forward.

Tomorrow (The Horror, The Horror) I board the cruise ship (tourists) for a four day/three night upriver cruise south to Aswan.  Will travel very light aboard the ship, with less than 15 pounds of belongings and half of that will be tech and electronics crap.  Update:  Someone just cancelled a room on the boat’s return to Luxor, so will now spend 5 nights on the boat and return by boat to Luxor.

Ma’a as-salaama,  ila-liqaa’.

From the web:

Farewells can vary depending on where you’re visiting, but two common ways to say goodbye to someone are ma’a as-salaama (goodbye) and ila-liqaa’ (until we meet again).

 

 

 

I am a 62 year old experienced solo traveler (not a tourist) and have spent approaching  a year traveling in 2nd and 3rd world countries.

I spent a over week at Venus in May 2016 and my stay was exceptional. The staff provided advice and help that saved me hundreds of dollars and more than offset the 3 star rating. Egypt can be challenging for independent, non package tour travel, but the staff at Venus helped me negotiate the Egyptian maze and bypass the touts – saving me time, money and frustration while ensuring my safety, security and enjoyment.

I was met at the train station by the owner, Abdoul, and he provided valuable advice and assistance in every aspect of my Luxor experience. Venus provides free transportation to and from the train station and around town and they arranged private tours with excellent guides and transport to the tourist sights at reasonable prices. They arranged non tourist experiences that allowed me to see and feel the heart and soul of the Egyptian people and the real Luxor. I experienced the real Egypt – not the packaged tour Egypt that tourists see sitting in a bus.

The free breakfast was healthy and filling. Dinner is available and is fresh and cheap. There was good a/c, hot water, cable tv, Wifi, a clean room, clean towels and bedding – all in a safe and secure location 10 meters from the entrance to the souk row. To avoid paying too much for something you want, ask the staff before buying anything, even a watermelon.

The best reason to stay at Venus is for the help and assistance. Do not be afraid to get to know the owner – he is warm, friendly and honest. I went to the owner’s home and had dinner, meeting his children and grandchildren. Invitations to dinner are frequent in Egypt – and often there are ulterior motives – like your money – but the offer from Abdoul was heartfelt and honest.

If you wish to escape the chaos of the streets of Luxor, go up the rooftop patio in the evening. There is a refrigerator in the dining room to keep you food cold and you can prepare your own meal in the large kitchen. And, Venus will also do your laundry for free!!

Kalhef, AKA Jimmy, also speaks excellent english and is very willing to help, as is Ali, who is learning english.

All in all, Venus was a wonderful experience and I would not hesitate to return.

Crossed the Nile and went to The Valley of the Kings on the west bank.   I was a tourist in the morning. Saw the tomb of King Tut and even stood face to face with him – at least his desiccated mummy – in his burial tomb. He was a child Pharaoh and died at 18. He was a little man.

It was hot today – 104F. Lots of tourists, tour busses with hoards of Japanese, many wearing fucking JACKETS!!! I was more amazed by the Japanese tourists wearing jackets and scarves than the burial tombs of the ancient Pharaohs in the Valley of the Kings.

Paying much less and experiencing much more than the tourists on the mega busses, I went to several other magnificent tombs and temples in a private cab with a wonderfully pleasant and intelligent Arab female tour guide, all dressed in black, that in addition to explaining the historical Egyptian story, told me why Muslim women do not want their picture taken. (I kept thinking “ You should spend some time walking the red light district of Amsterdam and loosen up a little. Sex is not THAT big of a thing).

Tourist Meccas are not what I seek when I travel, but I have been to them and will continue to go to them. I travel; I am not a tourist. See some of my posts on my old blog at blogspot for the differences between tourists and travelers.

Later in the day I did more interesting, exciting and enjoyable things than spending $10.00 to stand in Tut’s tomb.

“Like what?”

I traveled through the bowels of Luxor, a city of a million people striving and surviving. I sat on the east bank of the Nile after sunset and drank a beer while Adoul smoked the hooka. We discussed life, children, old age and death.

“There are no pockets in your tunic” or – when you die, you are not taking anything along with you. Even everything the powerful Pharaohs thought they were taking to the afterlife has been plundered or is in a musuem. It is not with them now.

Accompanied Abdoul all over Luxor – to pick up his grand daughter at school then take her home, pick up new towels for the hotel, dropped off groceries at his daughter’s mid down home. Sat and talked with street people that wanted to practice English then bought ice cream for the little children that were staring at my long hair and speaking a funny language.

Bought beer – again.  Did I mention that it hot here?

Haggled for 2.5 yards of nice Egyptian cotton fabric – twice – finally paying USD $10.00 and $12.50 – then went to a tailor to get tailored shirts made for $4.00. Finalized the cruise to Aswan. Rode in a horse drawn carriage again – this time for an hour and we went smack dab down the middle of the people’s market. No tourists venturing here.  Will return to the market to take pics before leaving Luxor.

Between Abdoul and the carriage rides, I have been in the bowels of Luxor where tourists seldom venture. I sat alone in Abdou’s car, at night, on a dark, narrow dirt street while he ran errands and did business while families, old women, young boys and children wandered past the car. I shopped in local markets and bought nuts, fruits and snacks. Every time Abdoul has an errand to run around town, I ride along. Bought some polo shirts custom embroidered with pyramids and “ Egypt” under the pyramids.  Bought pepper cheese and some sunscreen and a yellow highlighter. Watched an alabaster carving demonstration. Read about where I have been.  Took a nap. Ate the soup, rice and salad thhat Abdoul made in the hotel kitchen. Bought a candy bar.

There is a solid police presence everywhere in Luxor – on the east bank and across the Nile on the west bank/The Valley of the Kings.  We were stopped twice at checkpoints and Abdoul’s license was checked by police toting automatic weapons.  It is illegal to take photos of police or police cars or police stations – just like the Chinese police in Tibet – but, oh, I wanted to sooooo bad.

I ate lunch with a police officer outside the Egyptian Musuem in Cairo earlier in the week as he performed a show and tell about his tight quarters automatic gun (German) after my questions.

I have met and talked with many people and am constantly invited to dinner. When I am asked “Where from?” I reply “America”.

I have never felt afraid, intimidated or scared. I am stared at constantly. I stare back and then run my fingers through my ponytail and smile.

I am constantly told that there are not many tourists and that everyone in Luxor prays daily that they will return so they can make a living.

From Wiki:

The Luxor massacre was the killing of 62 people, mostly tourists, on 17 November 1997, at Deir el-Bahri, an archaeological site and major tourist attraction across the Nile River from Luxor in Egypt.

It is thought to have been instigated by exiled leaders of Al-Gama’a al-Islamiyya, an Egyptian Islamist organization, attempting to undermine the July 1997 “Nonviolence Initiative”, devastate the Egyptian economy[2] and provoke the government into repression that would strengthen support for anti-government forces.[3] However, the attack led to internal divisions among the militants, and resulted in the declaration of a ceasefire.[4] In June 2013, the group denied that it was involved in the massacre.[5]

Deir el-Bahri is one of Egypt’s top tourist attractions, notably for the spectacular mortuary temple of 18th-dynasty female pharaoh Hatshepsut known as “Djeser-Djeseru.”

In the mid-morning attack, six gunmen massacred 58 foreign nationals and four Egyptians.[6] The six assailants were armed with automatic firearms and knives, and disguised as members of the security forces. They descended on the Temple of Hatshepsut at around 08:45. They killed two armed guards at the site.[6] With the tourists trapped inside the temple, the killing went on systematically for 45 minutes, during which many bodies, especially of women, were mutilated with machetes. They used both guns and butcher knives.[6] A note praising Islam was found inside a disemboweled body.[7] The dead included a five-year-old British child and four Japanese couples on honeymoon.[8][9]
The attackers then hijacked a bus, but ran into a checkpoint of armed Egyptian tourist police and military forces. One of the terrorists was wounded in the shootout and the rest fled into the hills where their bodies were found in a cave, apparently having committed suicide together.[10]

One or more Al-Gama’a al-Islamiyya leaflets were reportedly found calling for the release of Omar Abdel-Rahman from U.S. prison,[11][12] stating that the attack had been carried out as a gesture to exiled IG leader Mustafa Hamza,[13] or declaring: “We shall take revenge for our brothers who have died on the gallows. The depths of the earth are better for us than the surface since we have seen our brothers squatting in their prisons, and our brothers and families tortured in their jails.” [14]

Tomorrow, I plan to visit the Egyptian countryside, Inshallah.

From wiki:
Inshallah (Arabic: إن شاء الله‎, ʾin shāʾa llāhu), also in sha Allah or insha’Allah, is Arabic for “God willing” or “if God wills”.[1] The phrase is used not only by Muslims, but also by Arabic-speaking Christians and Jews.

In the Quran, Muslims are told that they should never say they will do a particular thing in the future without adding insha-Allah to the statement.[2] This usage of insha-Allah is from Islamic scripture, Surat Al Kahf (18):23-24: “And never say of anything, ‘I shall do such and such thing tomorrow. Except (with the saying): ‘If God wills!’ And remember your Lord when you forget…'” Muslim scholar Ibn Abbas stated that it is in fact obligatory for a Muslim to say insha-Allah when referring to something he or she intends to do in the future.

More travel adventure tomorrow, inshallaha.

Had a great day.

Lets try a few pics…

Tried repeatedly, but failed on the upload.

Spent the afternoon on the west bank of the Nile, at the home of the hotel owner, with his wife, kids, nieces, nephews and about a dozen grandkids.  We ate.  We played.   I had my ponytail braided.  I took pics.  He smoked the hooka and then napped while I laid and read one of my books about Thebes and pharohs.

I haggled in the souks and bought some red, green and black peppercorns.   Tried on a tunic.  Had a few beers and lots of laughs.  Paid a tout to take me to the liquor store, and can now have a beer in my room in the evening.

Talked with Moro several times and made plans for 4 nights partying with him and a friend that will be visiting Egypt from PDX.  We will meet up in CAI and go to Alexandra when I return to CAI 2 weeks.

Was driven through the Valley of the Kings and Valley of the Queens and walked past the Temple of Luxor twice.  Will explore the tombs in both valleys over the next week.  Everything from Tut’s tomb is in the Egyptian Musuem (3000 items) except his mummy and sarcophygus, which is still inside the tomb.

Took the ferry across the Nile….. for $0.10.   Changed USD to Egyptian Pounds on the black market and received a 13% premium, without ATM fees or additional bank fees.  Wish I had lots more USD.

Had a leisurely Turkish coffee, just to get away from a tout that followed me for 4 blocks.  Touts are relentless and it is unusual if you can walk 15 feet without being approached for something, but they are just trying to feed their kids.  I do not mind.   50% of Egyptians live on $2.00 a day.

Took a great pic of a horse carriage curbside parked outside the McDonalds, then was agressively haggled by the carriage driver for $1.00 for taking a pic of his horse.  “No, no, I was taking a picture of McDonalds”.  Luckily (think a version of the traveler’s dance), hastily, I escaped and he did not follow very far since he would have had to leave his horse and carriage unattended.

Moro booked a flight from LUX to CAI for me in 2 weeks – 400 miles – for $38.00.

The 400 mile train ride from Cairo yesterday went smoothly.  Room is sufficient, typical 2nd/3rd world but adequately meets my needs – A/C, tv, private bath, double bed for $15.00.  Had a $2.50 pizza.  Took a horse carriage ride around town for 30 min for $2.00 with a $0.50 tip.

It was hot today – 107 – but will be hotter tomorrow –  114F, so will get an early start at 6:30 on the private guided tour of the Karnak temple complex.

Car horns are honking incessantly on the street below the dining room where I type.

From one of the books I bought yesterday:  Luxor, 400 miles south of Cairo is deemed the largest open-air museum in the world. On the site of the present day town of Luxor stood the ancient city that the Greeks called Thebes and which was described in Homer’s Iliad as “the city of a hundred gates”.  It reached its zenith in 1567 BC to 1085 BC. Thebes was the capital of an Egyptian empire that stretched from Palestine to Nubia for almost 500 years and at its peak the population reached almost 1 million.

Started getting info about a 3 day boat ride to Aswan and Upper Egypt.  Will most likely opt for the sailboat over the cruise ship.

Everything on the trip has been hassle free (by my standards) and everything has worked out well.  Egyptian hospitality has been unbelievable.  Have now had two meals in homes of ordinary people and have been invited many times. The carriage driver invied me for dinner tomorrow.  It is not my ka, it is Egyptian hospitality.

I enjoy Luxor much more than Giza – it is highly interactive, vibrant, historical, teeming with people.  It might be a little intimidating for the untraveled, but for me it is like a drug.

I want more.

 

 

 

 

Friendly, gracious and hospitable.   An Egyptian Orthodox Christian or Coptic, mid 30’s, single, born and raised in Cairo.  He speaks perfect English and has traveled to and experienced more places in the U.S. than most Americans. I receive a daily call (I now have an Egyptian SIM card) or email from him, asking if all is well, if I need any assistance, have any questions, etc.

He is a kindred spirit that by chance I met on the airport bus in Vienna. My only regret is that I did not ask him to sit and talk with me on the nearly empty flight from Vienna to Cairo.   We are now making up for my omission.
Two nights ago he insisted that Luis and I join him for dinner. He arranged a Uber driver to meet us at the Pyramid View Hotel and take us to meet him in downtown Cairo. After an exciting drive (every drive in Cairo is exciting) we met at one of the most spectacular restaurant locations in Cairo, on the tip of an island in the middle of the Nile. We sat 10 feet from the river.  It felt like home.  Moro felt my Ka, somehow. He repeatedly refused our offers to pay for anything.

 

The three of us had a wonderful dinner, drinks and great conversation. We went to see Moro’s store then he drove us around Tahrir Square (which I walked around yesterday, something I wanted to do on my visit to Cairo – an experience similar to going to Ferguson, Missouri for a lunch of fried chicken soon after the riots). Moro then drove us home to our hotel in Giza.

I will reconnect with Moro here in Cairo upon my return in 2 weeks.

I have been busy. Too bad I cannot upload photos, but I will when there is a solid inet connection.

Yesterday’s tour with our guide included the Egyptian Museum, rated as one of the best in the world. It contains thousands of items from King Tut’s tomb (but not his mummy which is in the Valley of the Kings in Luxor), statues, carvings, mummies and countless ancient artifacts. Went to Saqqara, Memphis and the step pyramid of Zoser, which preceded the great pyramids of Giza (there are several hundred pyramids in Egypt) and the open air musuem. Walked through the oldest large cut stone building in the world. I looked in awe and stood next to ancient carved hieroglyphs that were > 4000 years old.

Spent several hours walking the narrow alleys of Khan El-Khalill, full of souks (shops) selling every imaginable Egyptian item any tourist or traveler, male or female, could ever desire.   I saw thousands and thousands of houkas. I repeatedly did the tourist dance but left without a single purchase other than a watermelon smoothie.

We removed our shoes and walked the floor of the Mosque of Mohamed Ali Pasha and the Citadel, which dates to 1126.
Earlier in the long day I purchased several handmade papyrus Egyptian prints, which will be wonderful art adorning a wall in my home, somewhere, among the other traveler stuff I have framed.

Luis returns to Chicago early in the AM and I will miss his friendly smile, companionship and Ka, but another intrepid traveler will enter to fill the void that his departure will create.

I am sure of it.

From wiki:

The Ka (kꜣ) was the Egyptian concept of vital essence, that which distinguishes the difference between a living and a dead person, with death occurring when the Ka left the body. Egyptians believed that Heket or Meskhenet was the creator of each person’s Ka, breathing it into them at the instant of their birth as the part of their soul that made them be alive. This resembles the concept of spirit in other religions.

The Egyptians also believed that the Ka was sustained through food and drink. For this reason food and drink offerings were presented to the dead.

Namaste

This is a test from the hotel computer.

There appears to be fast inet and it appears I could easily upload pics.  Will work on getting them from the camera flash card to the computer to upload some.

Will stay here 2 more nights then head south to Luxor by train.  All arrangements have been made.

“All Of My Life”

All of my life, I’ve been searching
For the words to say how I feel.
I’d spend my time thinking too much
And leave too little to say what I mean
I’ve tried to understand the best I can
All of my life.

All of my life, I’ve been saying sorry
For the things I know I should have done
All the things I could have said come back to me
Sometimes I wish that it had just begun
Seems I’m always that little too late
All of my life

Set ’em up, I’ll take a drink with you
Pull up a chair, I think I’ll stay
Set ’em up, cos I’m going nowhere
There’s too much I need to remember, too much I need to say

All of my life, I’ve been looking
But it’s hard to find the way
Reaching past the goal in front of me
While what’s important just slips away
It doesn’t come back but I’ll be looking
All of my life

Set ’em up…

All of my life, there have been regrets
That I didn’t do all I could
Making records upstairs, while he watched TV
I didn’t spend the time I should
It’s a memory I will live with
All of my life.

“All Of My Life” by Phil Collins

 

Taking a rest day today.  Charging batteries in everything – in me, the camera, the iPhone and the iPad.  Writing.  Researching Egypt on the web and in my Fodor’s Egypt book – where I have been, where I will go next.

As I started to write, I played some music on the mini speaker from the iPod.   The Phil Collins song above started playing.  I replayed it three times.

“All my life, I’ve been searching….”

Laying in bed, looking out the window at the great pyramid with the clipity clop of horse hooves on the street below (on the new mattress that was placed on my bed frame yesterday after I made a passing comment to Abdoul that I had not slept well on the 2″ thick mattress).  Outside it a beautiful day but I just want to be alone and avoid the touts and their incessant efforts to get my attention and money.

Had a light breakfast on the rooftop (no more falafalas) with Luis and met some of the new travelers – the muslim attorney from Virginia with his wife and three young children, the 34 year old female that works for the TSA in New York and is traveling alone……….. All kindred minds.

“Set ’em up, I’ll take a drink with you

Pull up a chair, I think I’ll stay
Set ’em up, cos I’m going nowhere
There’s too much I need to remember, too much I need to say”

I have already spent over an hour attempting to upload this post.  It takes forever, if at all.

Just before quitting to try to upload anymore, Luis knocked on my door and we left to get some lunch.  It was just after 1 PM- but the restaurant was closed – for midday prayers.  We stopped at a little place for a bottle of water and to wait for prayers to end and started the traveler’s dance.  2 waters.  How much?  We agreed on 5 Egyptian pounds per bottle or $0.50 per botle.  I gave him a 50 pound note, wanting 40 pounds in change.  He brought out 2 big 1.5 liter bottles and tried to give me 10 pounds or $1.00 in change, so he was attempting to charge me $4.00.  I said no, he said yes.  No….yes.   He lamely explained there were no little botles of water available – only big bottles.  I threatened to leave and go to the next stall down the street.  Give me back the 50 pound note.  I will go over there for small bottles of water.  Finally, he/I agreed to one big bottle for 10 pounds, with 40 pounds in change.  What a hassle just to drink some water.

Luis and I went to a restaurant for some fish.  Had a nice salad, bowl of soup full of fish, calamari and shrimp, a canned cold pommegrate drink and brown rice for just under $8.00.

Delicious.

 

 

Have had two very long non stop days in and around Cairo.  Dinner downtown, the Egyptian Museum, Saqqara…….too many things to list.

Started at 8 AM yesterday,  got home to the hotel at 11:30 PM.  Started at 8 AM today, now 8:45 PM.  Too tired to spend the time or energy to list everything we did.  Will rest up tomorrow, relax, do some research, upload some pics and write several pages.  Took hundreds of pics today.  Wonderful hospitality but traffic is a another story.

Stay tuned.